Urey O. Mutuale 👨🏾‍💻👨🏾‍🍳👨🏾‍🎨
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Praia on the Rise: My Local Lens on Cape Verde’s Capital

CAPE VERDE / PRAIA / TRAVEL
Introduction There’s something magnetic about Praia’s rhythm—the way creole music drifts across the harbor at sunset, the pastel buildings climbing a gentle hill, and the scent of grilled fish mingling with ocean breeze. As a curious traveler roaming Cape Verde’s islands, I found myself drawn to Praia not just as a gateway city but as a lively, evolving capital brimming with culture, flavors, and surprises. A Morning Stroll Through Plateau Waking up in Plateau, Praia’s historic heart, I slipped out of my guesthouse just before dawn. Cobbled streets—once trodden by Portuguese merchants—were mostly silent, save for a lone coffee vendor setting up shop. I grabbed a bica (strong espresso) for just 40 escudos and watched as the pastel facades warmed in morning light. By 8 a.m., the city awakened: • Shopkeepers peeled open metal shutters on local boutiques selling handmade baskets and embroidered linens. • Elderly men gathered on park benches playing xadrez (local chess), bantering in Portuguese and Crioulo. • Street sweepers in bright yellow jackets ushered away the night’s detritus, revealing a dazzling mosaic of tile and granite beneath. These quiet rituals offered a window into Praia’s layered identity: a city shaped by African roots and Portuguese colonial echoes. Taste of Santiago: From Cachupa to Street Eats If there’s one dish that embodies Santiago Island, it’s cachupa—the beloved stew of corn, beans, vegetables, and fish or meat. I first sampled it in a family-run pousada on Rua Libertadores de África. Served in a deep clay bowl, the slowly simmered flavors felt like a liquid history lesson. But my favorite bites came from street stalls in Sucupira Market: • Grilled espetada skewers dripping in spicy malagueta marinade. • Pastel de peixe—crispy turnovers filled with flaky tuna and onion. • Doce de ginguba, a peanut brittle candy that cracked between your teeth and left a whisper of sweetness. Fun fact: locals often top their cachupa with a fried egg and a slice of linguiça sausage—a simple trick that elevates comfort food to celebratory fare. Cultural Beats and Weekend Markets Praia pulses to the beat of funaná and batuque, two traditional rhythms born in Santiago’s rural communities. On Friday nights, I followed distant drumming to a sand-floored bate-papo (informal gathering) behind a church. Lanterns swung overhead, and dancers spun in swirling skirts as accordion and ferrinho (metal scraper) called everyone to join. Come Saturday morning, the city teemed with vendors at Sucupira Market. Beyond fresh catch and produce, I found: • Artisanal soap made from local olive oil and coconut husk. • Colorful tapestries depicting island life. • Hand-carved wooden instruments—drums, xizimitile, and cavaquinho ukuleles. It was easy to lose track of time bartering for souvenirs while listening to impromptu live performances of rua criola (street Creole) poetry. Exploring Beyond the City Center Just 15 minutes by aluguer (shared minibus) took me from frenetic urban lanes to serene seaside villages. In Prainha, I watched fishermen haul nets at dawn. At Quebra Canela Beach, turquoise waves invited me for a quick dip before lunch. Practical tips for these mini-excursions: • Aluguer fares start around 60–80 escudos; ask locals for the daily schedule. • If you plan to rent a scooter or taxi for a full-day loop (to Pedra Badejo or Cidade Velha), negotiate a flat rate in advance. • Bring cash—small vendors rarely accept cards. Sunset Over Gamboa Bay Each evening found me at the promenade overlooking Gamboa Bay. As the sky turned pink and gold, fishermen’s silhouettes punctuated the horizon. Vendors sold grilled corn and bolo lêvedo (sweet muffins) served warm in wax paper. Watching families gather, elders sharing stories in Crioulo, and children chasing stray dogs along the seawall made me appreciate Praia’s sense of community—raw yet welcoming. Conclusion Praia surprised me at every turn. It’s more than a transit hub; it’s a living tapestry of history, food, music, and resilience. Whether you’re exploring colonial alleyways of Plateau, savoring cachupa under a tamarind tree, or dancing barefoot to batuque rhythms, Praia invites you to slow down, listen, and savor its unique pulse. As I boarded my ferry to Fogo island, I carried with me a renewed sense of curiosity. Praia isn’t just Cape Verde’s capital—it’s a reminder that true discovery blooms where culture and conversation meet.
  • Date:
    22 August 2025 15:00
  • Author:
    Urey Mutuale
  • Categories:
    CAPE VERDE / PRAIA / TRAVEL
  • Tags:
    CAPE VERDE / CULTURE / FOOD / HIDDEN GEMS / PRAIA TRAVEL

Urey O. Mutuale 👨🏾‍💻👨🏾‍🍳👨🏾‍🎨